1. Run all cables in a "Star Topology" configuration. That is to say that they all emanate from, and are "homerun" to, one central location, known as the wiring hub. Visualize a wagon wheel; all of the spokes start from one central point, known as the hub of the wheel.
Keep all cable runs to a maximum of 295 feet / 90 meters for each run. CAT 6 Channel has a max distance of 328 feet / 100 meters with patch cords, and CAT 6 Permanent Link has a max distance of 295’ or 90 meters (see Figure 1.)
Maintain the twists of the pairs all the way to the point of termination, or no more than 0.5" (one half inch) untwisted
Dress the cables neatly with cable ties, Velcro not plastic. Use low to moderate pressure. Velcro® cable ties are designed to facilitate the fastening of cables securely and make cable management and color-coding identification easy and quick.
Use low to moderate force when pulling cable, 25’ lbs. max. pulling force.
Use cable pulling lubricant for cable runs that may otherwise require great force to install. (You will be amazed at what a difference the cable lubricant will make)
Keep CAT 6 cables as far away from potential sources of EMI (electrical cables, transformers, light fixtures, etc.) as possible.
Install proper cable supports, spaced no more than 4 to 5 feet apart and no more than 49 cables and/or 25 lbs. max per support.
Always label every termination point within 6 in. of the end. Use a unique number for each cable segment. The idea here, is to make moves, adds, changes, and troubleshooting as simple as possible.
Always test every installed segment with a cable tester. "Toning" alone, is not an acceptable test.
Always install jacks in such a way as to prevent dust and other contaminants from settling on the contacts. The contacts (pins) of the jack should face up on flush mounted plates, or left, right, or down (never up) on surface mount boxes.
Always leave extra slack on the cable, neatly coiled up in the ceiling or near concealed place. It is recommended that you leave at least 5 feet at the work outlet side, and 10 feet at the patch panel (wiring hub) side.
Always use grommets to protect the cable when passing through metal studs or anything that can possibly cause damage to the cable.
Choose either 568A or 568B wiring standard, before you begin your project. Wire all jacks and patch panels for the same wiring scheme (A or B).
Always obey all local, national, fire and building codes. Be sure to "firestop" all cables that penetrate a firewall. Use mandated plenum rated cable. Always check local building codes.
1. Do not remove more than 0.5" of jacket when terminating.
Do not allow the cable to be sharply bent, or kinked, at any time. This can cause permanent damage to the cables' interior.
Do not over tighten cable ties. We recommend Hook and Loop (Velcro) Cable Ties for commercial installations.
Do not splice or bridge CAT 6 cable at any point.
Do not use excessive force when pulling cable.
Do not use oil, or any other lubricant, not specifically designed for cable pulling. Oil, or other lubricants, can infiltrate the cable, causing damage to the insulation.
Do not tie cables to electrical conduits, or lay cables on electrical fixtures.
Do not install cable that is supported by the ceiling tiles. This is unsafe, and is a violation of the building codes.
Never install cables "taught" in the ceiling, or elsewhere. A good installation should have the cables loose, but never sagging.
Do not mix T-568A and T-568B wiring on the same installation.
(1 exception) Do not use staples on CAT 6 cable that crimp the cable tightly. The common T-18 and T-25 cable staples are not recommended for Category 5e cable. The T-59 insulated staple gun is ideal for fastening CAT 6 cabling as it does not put any excess pressure on the cable.